On our way from the Fylde Coast to Cumbria, we popped in for lunch at the Longlands Inn & Restaurant at Tewitfield, near Carnforth, just less than a mile from junction 35 of the M6. Plenty of rooms at this inn plus a range of four-star, luxury stone-built cottages. Visitors and locals meet at this traditional, old country pub. Caesar salad, listed on the menu as a starter, was sizeable enough for a main course. Huge pieces of tender, char-grilled chicken were served with crisp lettuce, anchovies, Parmesan flakes and a tangy Caesar dressing. Across the table, the choice was breadcrumbed, Whitby scampi with French fries, a lemon wedge and home-made tartare sauce.
Our base is the family-owned, 16-bedroom, multi award-winning Black Swan Hotel in the serene, picturesque, conservation village of Ravenstonedale,where that dream of living in the country is inevitable. With just 500 inhabitants, a church, school, reading room, pump house, golf course and tennis court, it nestles within the Eden Valley at the foot of the towering Howgill Fells. Bordering the Yorkshire Dales National Park, this is an ideal location for walkers and an idyllic retreat for a post-lockdown sojourn.
The Black Swan former coaching inn dates back to the 1500s. It's family, disabled and dog-friendly, comfortable with eye-catching decor plus lots of character, some squeaky floors and quirky, personal touches. Owner Louise and her daughter are passionate about their business and make all their guests feel welcome. They love to pick up 'treasures' from local sales and auctions to enhance the ambience of the inn. The cosy, congenial bar serves real ale and, under a glass dome, tempting pork pies ad wedges of tasty Lancashire cheese, sourced from an award-winning butcher's. The bar attracts visitors, locals and residents alike. Our en-suite bedroom is well-fitted with comfy beds, Egyptican cotton bed linen and a little lounge area with stone fireplace, two easy chairs and a tv.
Unsurprisingly, with a two rosette AA rating and a menu devised by head chef Scott Fairweather, from locally-sourced ingredients, food here is excellent - creative but unpretentious. At dinner, the heavenly, twice-baked Lancashire cheese, leek and truffle soufflé starter deserves a special mention. The next morning, my delicious breakfast began with granola and yogurt topped with a berry compôte, followed by a generous serving of smoked salmon, resting on perfectly-cooked scrambed egg with chives atop a flaky croissant waffle. The inn's beer garden is located alongside a little burbling brook. Just over the bridge, glampers can stay in one of three luxury yurts.
About five miles away is the traditional market town of Kirkby Stephen. Walk through the market square, passing flower bedecked cottages along a narrow lane to Frank's Bridge, thought to be named after a local brewer. Built in the 17th century, the stone pedestrian bridge was used to carry coffins from nearby villages over the River Eden for burial at St Stephen's Church. At this tranquil, picnic spot, children love to paddle in the water and to feed the tame ducks.
In 1997, charismatic Simon Temple-Bennett and his wife Wendy moved from London to buy the 19th century, derelict Augill castle, located around four miles from Kirkby Stephen They planned small scale B&B and 'an idyllic family life'. "We were young, naive and optimistic," says Simon. Today,the award-winning business boasts 15 bedrooms and a restaurant. In his published book, Undressed for Dinner, Simon tells it as it is. 'At Augill we don't sell a contrived, polished, overly manicured version of country house living. A stay at the castle is much more the real deal'. Built by a 'gentleman of leisure',
partially destroyed in 1923 by an explosion and occupied Canadian Air Force members during the Second World War, it became a nursing home, boarding school, antique centre and education centre before being abandoned.
In the castle's Music Room restaurant, I feast on a retro-style prawn and avocado cocktail, tender roast and slow-cooked lamb, gratin potatoes, sprouting broccoli, carrots and red wine sauce followed by a surely unsurpassable, warm, damson Bakewell tart, accompanied with fresh cream and strawberries.
Simon adds: 'Augill Castle is a quintessentially English experience, consequently slightly chaotic and sometimes just plain bonkers'.
Marion Ainge
Sept 2021
Factfile
www.visitlakedistrict.com
www.blackswanhotel.com: Standard rate double room, B&B £135
www.longlandshotel.couk
Brough Castle Ice Cream Parlour and Tea Room: 01768 341219
www.stayinacastle.com
